Broth-Braised Potatoes with FFwD

Today we have broth-braised potatoes, my week two with the French Fridays with Dorie (FFwD) cooking group.  Why bother doing anything but boiling potatoes in water?  (That is, unless you are going to roast them in the oven with sea salt and a generous glug of olive oil.)  Leave it to Dorie, or probably The French, to discover that a wee bit more effort takes a dinner table basic and makes it extra yummy.

When I made these potatoes, my potatoes were small, but still bigger than I wanted -- just couldn't find the real babies at the market this week.  I also used one of my favorite pans, that held the potatoes close in a single layer, but it had too broad of a bottom and I ended up cooking away all of my broth.  Lucky for me, the potatoes were perfectly done at the final evaporation point, but when I make these again I'll adjust the liquid to suit the pan and the particular potatoes.  The important take-away from this recipe is not the precise cooking liquid amount, but to flavor the cooking liquid of your potatoes with a nice stock and a little citrus zest and herbs.

(I can't help but add...I bet these would be fabulous smashed and then roasted in the oven with sea salt and a generous glug of olive oil!)

from Around My French Table, p. 358, by Dorie Greenspan

Quatre-Quarts and FFwD

What the what???  A simple french cake from Dorie Greenspan.  One I was inspired to bake after listening to Dorie on NPR three days ago and immediately joining the French Fridays with Dorie (FFwD) cooking group.

What fun!  Baking Thursday night to post on Friday and getting a Friday after school snack for the kids in the process.  Bingo!  This is the "cooking school" for me:  once a week try something new from a superb cookbook -- very doable -- with the group accountability that seems to deliver the "stick to it" factor.  I'm very happy to find you TWDers and FFwDers.

The cake.  Very easy to stir together.  I put mine in a 6 inch round and baked it for 40 minutes.  Taste:  a super buttery madeleine without those pesky molds.  A simple cake that is perfect solo but would stand beautifully beside baked sliced pears, berries and cream or a fruit compote.
From Around My French Table, by Dorie Greenspan (she has links on her site to buy from many booksellers, including indies -- cool!)

Chocolate Pots de Creme

A tray of mini pots de créme is a festive (and easy!) way to enjoy dessert with family and friends, especially this time of year.  Make them the day before and let them chill in your refrigerator until you’re ready for them.  When serving, add a dollop of whipped cream on top to add some contrast -- of sweetness, texture, and visual appeal.  

Chocolate Pots de Créme

8 - 10 servings

6 1/2 ounces good quality semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate (chopped)

2 cups organic heavy cream

2 cups organic whole milk

1/2 cup granulated sugar

8 large egg yolks

1/2 teaspoon vanilla 

pinch sea salt

extra whipped cream for serving

1.  Set up:  Preheat oven to 300 degrees.  Select an assortment of ramekins, tea cups or other oven safe glass containers and set them in an 8x11 inch pyrex “lasagne” pan or other 2 inch deep baking container.

2.  Melt the chocolate with a bit of cream:  Put chocolate and 1 cup cream into a medium sized stainless steel bowl and set the bowl in a frying pan of water to make a double boiler of sorts.  Heat on the stovetop so the water bath is gently simmering and the chocolate, in its bowl, melts into the cream.  Stir occasionally until chocolate and cream is smooth then remove from water bath and set aside.

3.  Boil remaining cream:  Put remaining cream, milk and sugar into a saucepan, bring to a boil then remove from heat.  Stir in the vanilla and pinch of sea salt.  Pour this mixture into the chocolate/cream from step 2 and whisk to combine.  

4.  Whisk into the egg yolks & bake:  Crack egg yolks into a medium sized bowl and whisk in the cream and chocolate mixture from step 3.  Pour this mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a large glass measuring cup or a bowl with a pouring spout.  Fill ramekins leaving some space at the top.  Pour hot water into the glass pyrex dish holding the ramekins so water comes about half way up their sides.  Cover the whole ramekin pan with a large rectangle of foil and bake for 20 - 25 minutes, until the custard is set but still has a jiggle to it.  Set aside to rest for about 10 minutes then remove each ramekin from the water bath (being careful not to drip water into the others) and set aside to cool.  Refrigerate for a few hours, or up to a few days.  To serve, top with a dollop of very slightly sweetened freshly whipped cream.

Amy's Kitchen Coach Tips

• If you don’t have the exact quantities of milk and cream, remember that half and half is half cream, half milk and substitute.  Same with fat levels of the milk - see what you have already in your fridge and use up little amounts taking space in there, supplementing them with new purchases of cream and milk.  Do keep in mind, these are not “non fat” treats, so I don’t recommend using nonfat milk as a 100% substitute.  (They’re small and you can even share a cup if you wish.  Do not be afraid.  Enjoy your small but decadent treats!)

• The easiest way to ferry the ramekins into and out of the refrigerator is to put them back into the baking dish (after you dump out the water) or onto a serving tray.  Keep covered with the foil or plastic wrap and they will sit happily in the refrigerator for several days.

• Experiment with the many different dark chocolates that are now available - each have their own subtle flavors that will present nicely in these little puddings.  Also, see what comes your way...I was shopping at my mini-grocery, Burlingame Produce, sadly didn’t find the dark chocolate I needed to make these.  Told Kirk what I was up to, and he cheerfully offered me a taste of the bulk Belgian chocolate they use at their coffee bar (Blue Bottle!), and guess what?  Delicious.  And sold!
  

Quinoa Loaf

This quinoa loaf can take on any flavors you choose - from chiles and black beans, as below, to the classic combo of mushrooms and onions.  Think of this quinoa loaf as your “skinny quiche”.  Anything that’s good in quiche will be good stirred into this base of quinoa, eggs and cream.  

Stash the loaf in the refrigerator (it keeps great for several days) and warm a slice or two for a quick lunch or dinner -- especially delicious with a little topping of avocado, sour cream and a spritz of lemon.

Quinoa Loaf

10 slices

inspired by Clotilde Dusoulier's Gâteau de Quinoa, Champignons & Bacon from Chocolate & Zucchini

1/2 yellow onion, finely diced

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 cups cooked quinoa

3 eggs

¼ cup heavy cream

1 15 oz. can organic black beans, rinsed with water or 2 cups home cooked beans

1 4 oz. can diced green chiles

1/2 cup diced red bell pepper

2 tablespoons finely minced cilantro

½ teaspoon sea salt

a few grinds black pepper

a couple shakes of cayenne pepper

Toppings: chopped cilantro, avocado slices, squeeze of lime, sour cream

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Prepare a loaf pan by buttering the short sides. Drape a sheet of parchment paper (cut to fit) into the pan, leaving a few inches to overhang each of the long sides.

2. Heat olive oil in small frying pan then add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.

3. Crack eggs into a medium sized bowl and whisk together with cream. Add quinoa, black beans, diced red pepper, chiles, cilantro and seasonings. Stir gently to combine and pour into prepared pan and bake 20 – 25 minutes, until top has a golden crust and a knife inserted into the middle comes out clean. Let cool 10 minutes then remove from pan. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Amy's Kitchen Coach Tips

• Make ahead note: You can make loaf a day ahead of when you want to serve it, just wrap and refrigerate. Reheat for 10 minutes in 350 degree oven or warm individual slices on a griddle or frying pan.

• Prepare quinoa the easy way. Rinse with water to remove the saponin, a natural coating on quinoa grains. Cook in a rice cooker, just as you would rice. The ratio of quinoa to water is 1:2.

• Set yourself free from the rules and experiment with different ingredients in the base of quinoa, eggs and cream.  (See my 2008 version and perhaps chuckle at my title, “Quinoa Bean Brunch Slices”.   I struggled so finding a name for it back then, and I still don’t like the word “loaf”, but hey, that’s what it is and I’m older and wiser now.  So...”Quinoa Loaf”.)
  

Birria

“Beef stew” takes on a whole new dimension with dried chiles and the other wonderful, savory flavors in Birria, a traditional Mexican stew served with tortillas, onion, cilantro, and lime.  Some of the ingredients will require a trip to a Latino market, or some online sleuthing, but the hunt is fun, and much worthwhile, especially once the aromas of this slow-cooked meat start wafting.

What does this dish have to do with Thanksgiving?  I’m thankful for all the people in my life who have shared their cultures with me, usually through food and enjoyment in the kitchen and around the table.   A couple days ago, one of my friends (and awesome Latina cook) guided me through the mercado and into the kitchen, sharing with me the patient prep-work required to unleash the flavors from dried chiles - the raisiny sweetness of the Pasillas, the sour tang of the Gujillos -- the variety excites and astounds me! Always game for an impromptu cooking class, this time the fun also provided a casual and delicious TG-eve meal while my crew & I continued to pace ourselves through the prep of the Thanksgiving staples:  pumpkin pies, yams, stuffing, cranberry sauce, you know.   

Happy Thanksgiving!

Birria
serves 8

See ingredients for  “The meat”,  “The chile sauce”, “The spices” and “serve with” when shopping.

Timing:  Start this project a day or two in advance.  You’re going to marinate the raw meat with the chile sauce, spices and beer overnight, then you’re going to cook the meat in the sauce for several hours so it is very tender and easily shredded with two forks.

The meat:

3 pounds boneless beef chuck roast, cut into approximate 3” chunks (for the complete Birria experience, head out to a Latin market if you’re lucky enough to have any near you -- this post, “Choice Cut or Mystery Meat?  A guide to Mexican butcher shops” is quite informative and will help you navigate the “display”)

bones are good to have too, but optional -- ask your butcher for two or three pieces if you wish

 1.  Put the meat in a large cast iron or enamel cooking pot that has a lid.  

 2.  Make the chile sauce, as described below, and pour over the meat.

 3.  Make the spice mixture and pour it over the meat as well.  Refrigerate overnight.

 4.  Cook for 6-8 hours on “high” setting of a slow cooker, or 4 hours in oven at 350 degrees.  Shred meat and return to pot.  

 5.  Serve with refried beans, Mexican rice, tortillas, chopped onion, chopped cilantro and salsas of your choice.  Oh yes, and sour cream.

The chile sauce:

These quantities make enough for 6-8 pounds of meat, if you’re doing 3 pounds, as here in my recipe, put half of the chile sauce in a freezer bag for use later.

20 dried California chiles

4 dried Pasilla chiles

4 dried Gujillo chiles

2 cups chicken stock (I like the mild, mostly undetectable flavor of Imagine)

1.  Bring a pot of water to boil then remove from heat.  Add the chiles and let soften about 30 minutes.  Remove each chile from the water, pull off the stem and remove and discard most of the seeds.  Put the chiles in a blender with the chicken stock.  Purée the chiles and strain through a fine wire mesh strainer into the cooking pot with the meat.   

The spices:

1 Corona beer (7oz. or 12 oz., it doesn't really matter)

1/4 circle of Abuelita chocolate

8 cloves

8 black peppercorns

1 tablespoon sesame seeds, browned in a small frying pan on the stovetop

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1/4 teaspoon cumin seed

5 bay leaves (do not blend these, just add them to the meat cooking pot)

1.  Rinse out the blender from the chile sauce, no need to wash it thoroughly.  Blend the beer with the spices and pour over the meat. 

Amy’s Kitchen Coach Tips

• All stews get better with a little time on them.  So, if you’re having a party, take the pressure off yourself and make this dish a day or two in advance, store in the refrigerator, and heat gently on the stovetop when you are ready to serve.

• Instead of beef, you can make birria with pork, lamb or goat (or iguana...)

• Mexican rice:  1 cup rice, 2 cups chicken stock, 3 tomatoes (puréed in blender), salt.  Bring to boil and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes, until liquid is absorbed.

• Refried beans here.

• Mild salsa:  3 tomatoes, 1/2 teaspoon apple cider vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, pinch salt.  Cook 5-10 minutes then purée all in blender.

• Spicy salsa:  2 tomatoes, 1 jalapeno (use the seeds too), 1 garlic clove, 1/2 teaspoon apple cider vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, pinch salt.  Cook 5-10 minutes then purée all in blender.

Best Banana Bread (using almond pulp)

Another example of banana bread being great for baking experimentation...the almond pulp left over from making almond milk.  I’m constantly wondering how to put it to good use.  Thank you, banana bread.

Due to the high moisture content of the almond pulp, I cut it 1/2 and 1/2 with flour in this recipe.  The resulting bread is very moist and is especially delicious toasted.

Banana Bread (using almond pulp, for regular recipe see here)
makes 1 loaf (8 1/2 x 4 1/2 inch pan)

3 ripe bananas
1/2 cup unrefined organic cane sugar (I used Rapadura brand)
2 eggs
2 tablespoons sunflower oil
1 cup flour mix
1 cup almond pulp (packed into cup measure), leftover from almond milk
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup coarsely chopped toasted walnuts

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F and spray a loaf pan with nonstick spray or a light coating of solid vegetable shortening (no trans fats please!)

2. Peel the bananas and mix them with the sugar on low speed of an electric mixer using the paddle attachment until the mixture is fairly smooth and the banana chunks are minimized.

3. Add the eggs and mix to incorporate.

4. In a medium sized bowl, whisk to combine the flour mix, xanthan gum, salt and baking soda.  Add to the banana mixture and mix just until combined. Then add the walnuts.

5. Pour batter into the prepared loaf pan and bake for 1 hour or until cracks on top of loaf no longer appear wet. Remove from oven and cool in pan for 10 minutes then turn out on a cooling rack.

Kitchen Coach Tips

• When you have bananas that are getting freckly, either make banana bread or peel them and pop them into a freezer bag to use later.  Frozen bananas make great additions to smoothies, or you can thaw them and use them in this bread.

• Add 2 tablespoons ground, organic flax meal if you have it.  If you do this, you can even omit the sunflower oil.

• This recipe takes nicely to alternative sweeteners. If you are going to use a liquid sweetener, like barley malt or brown rice syrup, I've found it best to combine with some granulated sweetener, e.g. 1/4 cup brown rice syrup + 1/4 cup unrefined cane sugar in place of the 1/2 cup unrefined sugar in the recipe above. I've also used Stevia Fiber, 1 tablespoon, in place of the sugar and got a great result.

• Try this bread toasted with a little butter and fleur de sel sprinkled on top. Yummy!

Best Banana Bread

Banana Bread!  Come and get it!  It's delicious and happens to also be wheat-free (yep, even gluten-free) but not pleasure-free. 

Quick breads, like this trusty banana bread, are great for experimenting with alternative (non-wheat) flours, and sweeteners, for that matter.  This recent batch resulted in such a nice rise and such great flavor, I’m not sure I’ll go back to my original.

Banana Bread
makes 1 loaf (8 1/2 x 4 1/2 inch pan)

3 ripe bananas
1/2 cup unrefined organic cane sugar (I used Rapadura brand)
2 eggs
2 tablespoons sunflower oil
2 cups flour mix
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup coarsely chopped toasted walnuts

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F and spray a loaf pan with nonstick spray or a light coating of solid vegetable shortening (no trans fats please!)

2. Peel the bananas and mix them with the sugar on low speed of an electric mixer using the paddle attachment until the mixture is fairly smooth and the banana chunks are minimized.

3. Add the eggs and mix to incorporate.

4. In a medium sized bowl, whisk to combine the flour mix, xanthan gum, salt and baking soda.  Add to the banana mixture and mix just until combined. Then add the walnuts.

5. Pour batter into the prepared loaf pan and bake for 1 hour or until cracks on top of loaf no longer appear wet. Remove from oven and cool in pan for 10 minutes then turn out on a cooling rack.

Kitchen Coach Tips

• When you have bananas that are getting freckly, either make banana bread or peel them and pop them into a freezer bag to use later.  Frozen bananas make great additions to smoothies, or you can thaw them and use them in this bread.

• Add 2 tablespoons ground, organic flax meal if you have it.  If you do this, you can even omit the sunflower oil.

• This recipe takes nicely to alternative sweeteners. If you are going to use a liquid sweetener, like barley malt or brown rice syrup, I've found it best to combine with some granulated sweetener, e.g. 1/4 cup brown rice syrup + 1/4 cup unrefined cane sugar in place of the 1/2 cup unrefined sugar in the recipe above. I've also used Stevia Fiber, 1 tablespoon, in place of the sugar and got a great result.

•   Try this bread toasted with a little butter and fleur de sel sprinkled on top. Yummy!